A journey for the senses and the spirit

We reach the pinnacle of the Appennines, the sleepy Gran Sasso d’Italia. Covered with a soft blanket of pristine snow, the rocky mountain greeted us, as we make our way to the city of L’Aquila, partly destroyed by the April’s earthquake that devoured the richness of the city of the 99 fountain spouts and 99 churches visible in the territory. L’Aquila is a struggle of dignity and resilience. We finally arrive at the Adriatic coast, and settled in the Medieval Borgo of Colonnella in the province of Teramo. After the necessary logistics, we begin a week-long immersion into the culture, the foods and the wines of Central Eastern Italy. Many tourists while visiting Italy, often don’t realize that the vast territory include 20 regions, all different in landscape, food, and culture, but uniquely different in history.

October

is Italian heritage month, and I personally guided a group of 20 foodies and fashionables to my country. My cooking tours offer an in-depth scrutiny of regions in Central-Eastern Italy. The region of Abruzzo, the lovely Marche and the historical Umbria, offer spectacles often unconsidered by Americans. I met the tired red-eyed group in Rome, and proceeded toward the Eastern regions. Traveling from Lazio to Abruzzo is fascinating. The contrasting landscapes and sloping hills, covered with Autumn shades of green and leafy foliage are immensely beautiful.

 

 Central Eastern Italy was under the Spanish dominion for two Centuries, and many of the ingredients in the local cucina or some of the expressions in the dialect attest the Iberian presence. The 40 km distance between the mountains and the sea, offer a wide array of ingredients and a multitude of flavors, from tender roasted pig, to lamb stew, antagonized by wonderful seafood brodetti, home -made pasta with duck ragu’ or tiny veraci clams in garlic and parsley broth.

 Our hosts Sergio and Patrizia Addezi, are welcoming and humble, restaurateurs – hoteliers, who sharpened their trades in Germany and Northern Tyrol, before coming home to Abruzzo.

Their lovely hotel is nestled atop a pasture green hills overlooking the Adriatic on the east and the Gran Sasso peaks on the west. The comfortable bronze color hotel equipped with 36 lovely rooms and state of the art features, is surrounded by wineries and olive orchards. Our first day, although endless and tiring,  receive a first approach of rural hospitality when three of our guests are offered home-made wine and fresh figs while walking along the hilly roads of Colonnella by a vibrant 86 year old named Gino.

 Day two begins with a visit to the Lepore winery where we sample fine Montepulciano d”Abruzzo, crispy Trebbiano, and of course a series of riserva. Thick slabs of country dark bread drizzled with local extra virgin completes the experience. Mid-morning snack at organic gourmet shop Agriservice with plenty of Abruzzesi salami, pancetta, Pecorino cheeses and a delightful spread named Ventricina made with pork and spices. We climb toward Montorio, a town located on the slopes of the Appennine, to visit Villa Nerina, a rustic and hospitable restaurant specializing in grilled meats, wild mushrooms and hearty pasta filled with vegetables. We fall in love with Augusto, a bulldog of large proportions, who keeps knocking the door open, and want to join in.

 Dinner on pan-seared duck at Villa Susanna degli Ulivi in the evening, under the careful hands of Chef Cristiano del Santo, proves that we are in a true terrestrial paradise.

On day three we depart to the medieval city of Ascoli Piceno in nearby Marche region. A visit to the ancient setting, older than Rome itself, is a charming reminder that anything in this country has a story. A climb to the city palazzo Ducale, a stroll in Piazza del Popolo, the oldest in Italy, and of course aperitifs at Caffe’ Meletti, birthplace of Anisette. Lunch at Lo Scudiero on roasted vegetables and pork loins, a selection of house-made salumi and local fresh ricotta.

On the return, a seminar on roasting espresso Marcozzi coffee, a mandatory afternoon pick me up, conclude the afternoon. Dinner on a large grilled vegetable buffet, and an outstanding cooking class headed by a young chef named Andrea, who masterfully arranges a rabbit galantine, a filled osso buco cannelloni and delightful mocha molten tart over vanilla sauce. Divine is the setting.

 A long drive to Assisi in Umbria, through the green slopes of the Sibillini mountains, is exciting and challenging, because of rainy conditions. Once arrived at the holy site, the weather agreed in making the visit religiously chilling, and fulfilling. A forty minutes drive to ancient Gubbio for a wonderful lunch at famed Taverna del Lupo,  with  maestri Rodolfo Mencarelli and chef Claudio. Spectacular Cucina Eugubina, headed by ribbon pappardelle with tiny duck meatballs, local grain and legume Imbreacciata soup, a roasted rosemary veal loin, and a buttery spoon caramel scented dessert mousse, topped with crumbled puff pastry.

 The long return at Villa Susanna ends with a wonderful dinner on braised venison with cherry and chocolate sauce, always basted with ……..of course Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Port city of San Benedetto del Tronto in the Marche is our day five journey. We arrive there after a visit to Emmanuel a young winemaker who masterfully heads the winery Il Conte in the hill town of Monte Prandone, about 20 minutes from Ascoli. Few sips of a fresh Pecorino wine, followed by a sweet Passerina, prove that it may be too early to drink. Luckily, Emmanuel pairs the wines with farm-made local aged goat cheeses and spelt flour bread.

A stroll through the quaint city streets of San Benedetto, brief shopping worth $ 250 jeans for Eduardo, curious understanding of the fashion fever that embraces Italians, a quick espresso at Caffe Florian, a tiny flaky apricot pastry, and we embark toward Ristorante Molo Sud, near the rumbling shores of the Adriatic, on this day, particularly upset and boisterous. The pranzo all based on local seafood is a delight reminder that simple cooking with fine ingredients is all you need for a winning experience. The secret is of course……..the selection of the raw material, and the Italians have mastered the process.

Back on the road again, toward the shopping center of Casette d’Ete and Montegranaro in the province of Fermo. Rain slowes down the pace, but not the shopping desire. This part of Italy is the epicenter for fashion. Della Valle, Armani, Prada, Ferre’ and Giannini, have design centers here, paired with elegant outlet displays. Our return to the hotel is desperately needed, I notice some reluctance in the facial expressions of the American warriors….I think they ate and drank enough Trebbiano for a day and finally surrendered. Nevertheless, Chef Cristiano, places a lovely thinly sliced roasted turkey breast with charcoal scented potatoes and sage zucchini under our olfactory senses and the rest is a biting affair. 

 We wake up blinded by a thick fog that overshadows the Adriatic and the olive trees below our hotel windows, but promised ourselves to make this day another memorable culinary dream. The Masciarelli family is the most important winemakers in Abruzzo, and one of the leading wine producers in Italy. Their wines have consistently won prices in every possible category across Vinitaly and the world. With the sudden and premature death of their ringmaster Gianni last year, many advocated that the quality and the vision of the brand may be in jeopardy. Our driver Gianluca, ritually, comfortably rolls the A 14 south toward Pescara, the largest city in Abruzzo, located on the shores of the Adriatic and home of the last Mediterranean Games. We arrive at the winery located in San Martino sulla Maruccina near Chieti, where we get a tour of the outstanding modern facilities, paired with ancient physiological techniques which adds to the mystique of this family. We are given a presentation by Eleonora, a young and energetic visionary, who thinks in Italian and quickly translate in English. Her spirit and Grecian beauty is exciting and focusing the group. We leave to travel to the castle of Semivicoli in the town of Casacanditella on the slopes of Maiella.  Recently restored, the castle is the spiritual head-quarter of the Masciarelli style. Nobiliy, lived here in the 1300, and today, it host wine barrels made with French oak, filled with Montepulciano, Trebbiano, Cerasuolo, and an unexpected Merlot. These grapes arrive from the four provinces in Abruzzo. Lunch of thinly sliced prosciutto, bruschette soaked in Frantoio and Leccino olive oil and cured meats and cheeses from nearby artisanal shops. The wine and olive oil presentation included seven wines, four olive oil varietals, and an educational seminar that protruded professionalism in every aspect. As we depart, the sky turns brighter, the shores emanates the perfume of the salty Adriatic, as sadness begins to set in, in contemplating an end. We return to Villa Susanna, where the dinner is a spectacle of provincial Teramo cooking. Polenta with pork ragu’ dusted with fuming Pecorino, creamy zuppa of farro, followed by roasted rosemary leg of lamb from the Laga Mountain’s , paired with wholesome potatoes, cooked in lamb broth.

The dessert is a pizza dolce, a typical sponge cake filled with chocolate and lemony cream, soaked with alchermes liqueur. I dip into youthful memories, because it’s food I enjoyed during my youth. On our last day, we comfortably enjoyed a solid breakfast, some guests took a stroll through Colonnella, others, shopped or joined the Lord for a chat. Afternoon stage to the Fortress of Civitella, built by the Spaniards during their conquest, and final dinner on Middle Ages style pizza and beer at Vecchio Portone in hilly Tortoreto. Truffles, sausages, vegetables, prosciutto and more are the toppings offered, along with genuine hospitality.

As Gianluca patiently rolls through Autostrada 24 toward Fiumicino, silence is the predominant sound, in the dark early morning fog of the Appennines. Once we exit Italy’s second longest tunnel, the sunrise makes its way through the clouds, we realize that we are at the end of our journey of the senses. While Eddy Casanova, sluggishly complaints on his weight gain, promising immediate gym actions, Laurie’s contaminating laughter and pleasant smile adorns the return, along with Debbie’s genuine charm wrapped in music that emanates strange lyrics. Luigi and wife Carmela are comfortably silenced by the memories of the times, reminiscing of family ties. Images of life, scans through our minds, from the fashion show of Miss Olga Versace, to the dry jokes and leveled sense of life of Dottor Tawfik, to the rest of the participants who unquestionably celebrated life with us.

We promised we’ll meet again in Abruzzo, to relive and replay this movie. As we arrive to Fiumicino, standing behind a myriad of people waiting to board, with airlines officials in disarray, delayed flights, angered stressed tourists, and frustrated travelers, we realize that in this country, invaded by many, culturally immense, and historically unpunctual, yes, we realize that in the land of contradictions and 59 failed governments, time with family and friends takes any precedent and spiritual memories are created for a lifetime.

 Walter Potenza